Fashion industry - Companies that are trying to make new sustaible textiles

More and more companies are trying to become more sustainable and Ethical. For some, this is creating more transparent policies for workers and consumers whereas other companies are focusing on using more innovative textiles or dying processes.

Companies turning water bottles into textiles 

Company: Newlife Yarns

Company website:Newlife Yarns 

Newlife Yarns is a fiber mill turning bottles into polyester yarns. This company is headquartered in Italy but ships to companies around the world. NewLife utilizes a mechanical process for its yarn production rather than a chemical method. This method reduces any toxins that were previously generated from the conventional chemical system.

Company:  Repreve

Company website:repreve

Repreve is a polyester fiber made of 100% recycled plastic. The plastic tends to be comprised mostly of post-consumer plastic bottles. Numerous brands in different sectors use the Repreve fiber to make high-quality products from the recycled content.

Companies that are using biomaterials 

Company: Mycoworks
Company website: MycoWorks 

Facebook:MycoWorks

The company was founded in 2013 by Phill Ross and Sophia Wang. The company focuses on creating textiles similar to leather from fungi mycelium (mushroom skin) from the "Ganoderma lucidum" and "Pleurotus ostreatus" mushrooms. This textile can be used to make weatherproof furniture, bricks, footwear, and leather.







Company: Suzanne Lee     

Company website:Biofabricate
TedTalk: Suzanne Lee: grow your own clothes

Suzanne Lee is a New York-based fashion designer who focuses on the future of textiles. In 2010, Suzanne created BioCouture. The idea was brought to life in 2003. the BioCouture atelier has explored the use of living cultures of microorganisms (yeast and bacteria) to grow biomaterials like cellulose into sustainable compostable clothing such as Jackets and shoes. BioCouture was included in Time Magazine's The Top 50 Best Inventions of 2010.

Athletic wear and sustainability

Some people believe that Yoga leggings pants, shorts, top, and tank tops should only belong in the gym and others have incorporated these items into their everyday style. According to Allied Market Research, the Global Sports apparel market is expected to earn $184.6 billion by 2020.





Name of the company:Nike

Company website:Nike 
   
Instagram: @nike

As of 2019, 75 percent of all Nike shoes and apparel contain some recycled material. For Example, Nike Air was introduced in 1979. Today, the 'air' technology is pressurized air (nitrogen) inside a strong flexible bag (called a Nike Air sole unit) that sits in the midsole beneath the heel and forefoot to provide the consumer the sensation of walking or running on air. Since 2008, all Air sole are composed of at least 50% recycled manufacturing waste. Nikes goal is to make its products lighter and stronger while minimizing Nike’s impact by using more recycled and sustainable materials.

 

Name of the company: Adidas

Company website:Adidas

Instagram: @adidas

Addias is a member of the Better Cotton Initiative which focuses on better standards in cotton farming around the world. Addidas is also involved in the Sustainable Apparel Coalition, which helps maintain standards when it comes to both environmental and labor-law standards. The brand has also vowed to be using only recycled plastic in all its products by 2024.



Name of the company: Atheleta

Company website: Athleta‎

Athleta was created in 2009 by Gap Inc. It is A Certified B Corporation. This means that the

company is legally required to consider the impact of their decisions on their workers, consumers, suppliers, community, and the environmentAthleta currently makes 40 percent of its performance apparel from recycled and sustainable materials. They hope that by 2020 80% will be made this way.

Name of the company: Outdoor Voices

Company website:Outdoor Voices       

Instagram: @OutdoorVoices

Outdoor Voices was founded in 2013 by CEO Tyler Haney. The companies performance fabrics are made from recycled polyester and produced in factories that adhere to strict safety and social responsibility standards. Outdoor Voices also focuses on minimizing their water usage in their manufacturing process and also is trying to offset their air emissions.

Fashion industry- High end companies that are trying to be sustainable

There are many high-end brands that are trying to be sustainable.



Name of the brand: Stella McCartney


Store link: Stella Mccartney

Instagram:@stellamccartney

Stella McCartney launched her first collection in the early nineties. The brand is Cruelty-free. They do not use fur or leather. Instead, Stella McCartney uses re-engineered cashmere, ethically-sourced wool, organic cotton, and recycled textiles. In 2014, Stella McCartney introduced Clevercare. This is a five-step labeling system to help consumers care for and prolong the life of their clothing through mindful garment care. Stella McCartney also regularly conducts audits and measures its ecological impact. Stella McCartney also collaborates with numerous Nonprofits and environmental conservation organizations which have included Wildlife Works and Parley for the Oceans.





Name of the brand: Eileen Fisher

Store link: Eileen Fisher                   

Instagram: @eileenfisherny


Eileen Fisher is known for her use of recycled fabrics, organic fibers, and natural dyes in production. The store even has its own signature fabric: Silk Georgette Crepe. This textile is dyed without hazardous chemicals in the world’s only dyehouse to produce bluesign® certified silks. Eileen Fisher also collaborates with environmental conservation initiatives, supports local artisans by bringing them to the store, and empowers women through the Eileen Fisher Leadership Institute. The company also has a goal of recycling over one million pieces by 2020.





Name of the brand: Rag & Bone

Store link: Rag & Bone

Instagram: @ragandbone                                 



Rag & Bone was founded by Marcus Wainwright (now the sole owner) and Nathan Bogle in 2002. Initially, the brand was launched as a denim label. In 2017, Rag & Bone partnered with Cotton Incorporated's Blue Jeans Go Green to launch a denim recycling program. This program encourages customers to bring in their old jeans to a  store for recycling and repurposing. After the jeans are donated by the consumer, the denim is then recycled and transformed into insulation for homes.




Name of the brand: Mara Hoffman

Store link: Mara Hoffman         

Instagram: @marahoffman


Mara Hoffman graduated in 2000 from the Parsons School of Design and then started her own label. The brand uses recycled fabrics, fibers, hemp, linen, and organic cotton. The company also uses sustainable packaging. he brand uses alternative approaches to fashion production by using an array of sustainable fabrics. In her swimsuit line, she uses ECONYL® ( regenerated nylon fiber made from waste and REPREVE® (polyester fiber made from recycled plastic.) Mara Hoffman also chooses to use hemp, organic cotton, linen, ethical alpaca wool, and fibrous plant-based materials sourced through Lenzing Group for the ready-to-wear collections.




Name of the brand: Loup Charmant       
Store link: Loup Charmant
Instagram: @loupcharmant     

This brand started in 2006 in NYC by designer Kee Edwards. Their feminine clothes use sustainable fabrics such as Silk, organic cotton, linen, and hemp to create "airy" and "effortless" looks.





Name of the brand: Ninety Percent
Store link: Ninety Percent
Instagram:@ninety_percent


Ninety Percent is a London-based contemporary label that was launched in 2018. The company is dedicated to using materials like 100% organic cotton, Tencel and hemp to create luxurious and comfortable clothing. They also donate 90% of the proceeds to a range of charitable causes and work closely with there manufacturing facilities in Bangladesh and Turkey to make sure all of their workers are getting their rights.



Name of the brand: EDUN
Store link: EDUN
Instagram:@EDUN   

In 2005, Ali Hewson and Bono founded the Edun label. The company name is "nude" spelled backward. The backward spelling of the name is to suggest both "natural" and the Garden of Eden. In 2007, Edun created a new division called Edun Live, a tee-shirt company which is 100% grown and sewn in Africa. The next year, Edun established the Conservation Cotton Initiative Uganda (CCIU.) The CCIU provides funding, training and enterprise support to cotton farmers, pickers and planters to help build sustainable businesses in Northern Uganda.

Fast fashion

Fast fashion is inexpensive clothing produced rapidly by mass-market retailers in response to the current trends. Due to the low prices and low quality of the materials, modern fashion companies have generated a cultural shift around clothing: one where it is cheaper to go out and buy new clothes than to wash or dry clean the ones you already have.

Name of the brand: H&M
Store link: H&M
Instagram:@HM

"At H&M, we have set ourselves the challenge of ultimately making fashion sustainable and sustainability fashionable. We want to help people express their personality and feel proud of what they wear. 'I'm very excited to see the progress 'we've made so far and how this will help us to make you an even better offer – and create a more sustainable fashion future"

Karl-Johan Persson, CEO

The Conscious Collection by H&M is built on seven commitments to conscious actions. Each of these commitments which helps make the fashion industry more sustainable while making customers feel proud of what they choose to wear and where they buy it from. The line uses organic linen, cotton, silk, Tencel and recycled polyester as materials. In 2018 the company started to create using Econyl (a 100 percent regenerated nylon fiber made from fishnets) to create intricate pieces of lace on products. The company also has recycling bins in their stores in which will accept used clothing in any condition. By 2030 the company aims to use only recycled or other sustainability sourced materials and by 2040 it wants to be 100% climate positive.

Name of the brand: Uniqlo
Store link: Uniqlo
Instagram:@UniqloUSA

Uniqlo is built on a fast fashion mode with semi-disposable clothing. The company is slowly trying to become more ethically conscious and more sustainable. Currently, the company has a repair and reuse program in place and report on their direct and indirect carbon emissions. Uniqlo has joined the Sustainable Apparel Coalition and has also made a public commitment to reduce its carbon footprint by 10% by 2020. Uniqlo's labor rating is 'Not Good Enough' based on the 2018 Ethical Fashion Report which looks payment of a living wage in the country and comparing it to the country, worker empowerment, and transparency, The company currently does not use fur, angora, shearling, and Karakul. But, they do have items that use down feather, wool, and leather and without specifying their sources. Uniqlo also uses hair from exotic animals.


Name of the brand: Zara
Store link: Zara
Instagram:@ZARA

As one of the largest fashion retailers in the world, Zara has an opportunity to lead the way for other fast fashion companies into a sustainable future. Zara's Join Life collection is created with natural fibers and using recycled fabrics. 'Zara's animal welfare policy includes a strict ban on fur, angora and on stocking products tested on animals. They also claim to source their wool completely from non-mulesed sheep. But, Zara does use leather and down without saying where they get their source. 'Zara's parent company, Inditex, created a repair and reuse program called Closing the Loop. The program allows customers the opportunity to drop off their used garments in-store or send their items through the post for their clothes to gain a second life.

Human Rights and Fashion

It is important to recognize that human rights and sustainability are interconnected. In a globalized economy, it has become very tempting for big corporations to seek cheap labor in third-world countries. This applies in particular to the fashion industry, and many companies such as H&M, Nike and have been scrutinized for using cheap labor abroad. Workers in these outsourced countries tend not to have the same type of labor rights. Workers in the United States do not have the constant threat that those who make their clothes have.

The textile industry

This industry is crucial for the fashion industry since one needs material to make clothes. The Textile industry is also one of the largest polluters in the world. The World Bank estimates that almost 20% of global industrial water pollution comes from the treatment and dying of textiles. Dying textiles can also have some adverse health side effects such as Consistent vomiting, tremors, Lack of coordination, Loss of Consciousness, headaches, Respiratory diseases, Concentration disorientation, malnutrition, fatigue, Extreme depression and palpitation, Cancer, and Death. Many workers do not have access to the health care needed and tend to need the money. Workers can not leave work out of fear of losing their job to someone who is available. In third world countries; you are replaceable. There is always someone willing to take your place to work. In the United States, Obama created the controversial Obama care to help secure those with less income a chance of having affordable health care. In third world countries, governments may be too corrupt to deal with these issues.

Children 

Companies are are they employing anyone and everyone capable of working in a factory, including children.  People in first world countries would not allow their children to work in these conditions. 

• According to the International Labour Organisation, an estimated 170 million children are engaged in child labour, or 11% of the global population of children. (stop child labour)
• 73 million of them work with some form of hazardous material (stop child labour)
• When using children as labor, it is not helping combat the poverty cycle since by taking kids out of school which strips children of any educational and future occupational opportunities.
• When children are educated
• They learn how to prevent illness and improve the overall health
• They are able to understand and advocate for basic rights
• They can manage personal relationships
• They can help build and maintain infrastructure

Outsourcing and pay 

Manufacturers who outsource jobs to foreign companies or their associates in Malaysia, Nairobi, China, India, Guatemala or other countries do this so that they do not have to spend a lot of money to pay workers. This means that the workers do not make what would be considered a "livable wage" to workers since that means more profit for them. These workers are also working longer hours than the usual American 9am-5pm job. Around the world, the average daily wage is less than $2 a day. Most live on less than $1.25 per day. This is still a reality of life for "13% of people in China; 47.5% in Sub-Saharan Africa; 36% in South Asia; 14% in East Asia and the Pacific; 6.5% in Latin America and the Caribbean. Almost 1.3bn people in total" according to a BBC article called Dollar Benchmark: The Rise of the $1-a-day Statistics. In The United States, it is nearly impossible to live on this dollar amount but it does have some form of the welfare system for their citizens that other countries do not have. 

Many workers do not have Suitable conditions in the environment/workplace

• They tend to get constantly yelled at by their superiors and are beaten by the security guards for leaving the factory without permissions to take breaks.
• In some factories, there are no emergency exits. 
• In 2012, 112 workers were killed in fire at Bangladesh garment factory since there were no emergency exits. 
• Sexism also occurs when applying for work. 
• Women are asked if they are married, going out with a man and planning to have children in the future.
• Sometimes women must sign a legally bound contractual agreement not to get pregnant as long as she works at the factory. 
• This brings up the idea of what is legal vs. what is ethical. 
• Women are also more likely to be physically harassed than their male colleagues. 

You can make a difference

• boycotting companies who you feel have unethical practices in regards to workers rights.
• taking a stance politically
• signing petitions
• talking to your elected officials
• going out and educating people about buying ethically
• Working with a nonprofit

Films to watch about Human rights and the Fashion industry: 

Ethics and the fashion industry | DW Documentary

True Cost

What is sustainability?

My definition of sustainability: 

I think that sustainability can be broadly defined. For me, I see it in the sense that we need to fulfill our needs but in a way without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs.

How I try to be sustainable:

There are many things I’ve done in my daily life to be more sustainable. I try to use as much natural light as possible before turning on my light bulbs. In Seattle, it is illegal to throw food and food waste in the trash. You have to separate everything into compostable, recycling or trash. My family and most of our neighbors go and buy food weekly at the local farmer’s markets thus we are supporting local farms, and the farming practices emit less Co2 due to less transportation needed. When I do go to a grocery store, I tend to buy all organic and bring my tote bags instead of the plastic bag or paper bags that offered. Certain stores such as whole foods and Trader Joes give incentives to customers for doing this simple act. If I need to use something temporarily, I try to ask a friend or neighbor If I could borrow it instead of going and buying the item. I have done this multiple times throughout college with textbooks. I also try my best to use my own hydro flask instead of using a plastic water bottle or bringing my own mug to Starbucks.

Ways that you can be sustainable:

• Turn off or unplug appliances and lights that you’re not using.
• Set your thermostat lower than usual in the winter and bundle up.
• Open windows to allow a breeze instead of turning on the air conditioning.
• Hang clothes to dry instead of using the dryer.
• Try growing your own food. 
•  You can easily grow herbs, fruit, and vegetables. Even if you only add a few plants around the house, it all helps!
• Donate Items that you no longer want or need. 
• This extends the life of the product before it goes to the landfill.
• Don’t use plastic bags at checkout. Instead, bring your own bags from home for your groceries.
• Each year, an estimated 500 billion to 1 trillion plastic bags are consumed worldwide and sadly most of them do not get recycled. 
• Opt to receive everything digital.
• Donate your old devices to schools and other institutions.
• According to the EPA, of the roughly 2.25 million tons of used and unwanted electronics each year, 18% is collected for recycling and roughly 82% winds up in landfills
• Dell and Goodwill have collaborated to get more than 96 million pounds of electronics donated and then refurbished. Once refurbished the new electronics are given to the local community. 
• When you purchase items that are imported from all over the world look for the fair-trade certification. This means that the items are grown using sustainable agricultural methods and that local people are receiving fair prices for the goods they produce.
• By higher quality products. 
• This will help you reduce dependence on disposable or cheaply made single-use products that end up in landfills.

Some great interactive and educational websites to help better understand your water use and carbon footprint

https://waterfootprint.org/en/water-footprint/personal-water-footprint/
https://www.nature.org/en-us/get-involved/how-to-help/consider-your-impact/carbon-calculator/

Human Flow

Movie: Human Flow
Year: 2016
Directed by: Ai Weiwei
Produced by : Ai Weiwei,Chin-chin Yap,Heino Deckert, and Andy Cohen
Trailer:Human Flow Trailer
Amazon: Human Flow
Running time: 140 minutes

Synopsis

This documentary shows the massive human migration taking place in parts of the world. The film uses interviews from experts and refugees in regards to human migration.

Topics focused on in the documentary: 

 The film looks at how refugee movements can be classified into four causation categories: wars among states, ethnic conflicts, non-ethnic conflicts, and oppression. The documentary itself shows refugees who are at the mercy of border guards and humanitarian organization to decide on what their fate might be and whether they will survive. This film also looks at the idea of  "shared responsibility", and how shows some nations are coming together to provide aid whereas others are hesitant. This creates the question about  being responsible for each other as humans.

Ai Weiwei

The documentary is personal for Ai Weiwei. His father was the famous poet Ai Qing. He was branded an enemy of the state by the Chinese Communist government. They forced him and his family into exile. Later Weiwei father was seen as a prominent national poet (after the death of Mao Zedong in 1976.) This unique personal experience creates another dimension in regards to this film as well as in his other artistic works.

Quote from Ai Weiwei  in regards to this film:

"Humanity is subjective. It can be seen in poetry, as I’ve included in the film. It can be seen in a landscape. I wanted to establish a relationship between a tragic human crisis and a historical, larger context." (The Atlantic)

Facts about refugees: 

• The United Nations High Commissioner for Refugees (UNHCR) was formed in 1950 to help the 40 million refugees across Europe after WWII.
• In 2017, 65.6 million individuals have been forcibly displaced worldwide because of persecution, conflict, violence, or human rights violations, per the UN High Commissioner for Refugees (UNHCR).
• It is estimated that 50% of refugees are under the age of 18 (UNHCR)
• Developing countries host 80% of the world’s refugees (UNHCR)
• World Refugee Day is held every year on June 20th by UNHCR.
•  There are some  protections in place for Refugees. 
• Under international law, refugees are not allowed to be forced back to the countries they have fled. ( Human Rights Education Associates)

Why I think you should see it:

I think that it is extremely important to understand what is going on in the world in regards to refugees and the policy that the country you live in puts in place due to these migrations.